Mrs. Mary Dewees' Journal from Philadelphia to Kentucky, 1787-1788
From The Pennsylvania Magazine and Historical Biography. 28:2 (1904). 182-198.
September 27th, 1787.-Left Philadelphia about five o'clock in the afternoon and tore ourselves from a number of dear friends that assembled to take a last farewell before we set off for Kentucky. Made our first stage 6 miles from the City, being very sick the greatest part of the way.
September 28th.-We left the sign of the Lamb at half past six A.M. and proceeded to Col. Webster's, 7 miles, where we breakfasted, and then set off for the United States, which we reached at 5 o'clock P.M., and put up for the night on account of my sickness which was excessive, being obliged to go to Bed immediately. . . .
October 6th.-Left the foot of the Mountain, crossed the Falling Spring and proceeded to Chambersburgh, a handsome little Town with some pretty stone and brick Buildings in it. After passing the Town we crossed the Falling Spring again, one of the finest Springs in this part of the world, by which several mills in this neighborhood are turned. Obliged to stop sooner than usual, one of our horses being Lame, find the people a good deal shy at first, but after a little while very sociable and very Obliging; treated with some very fine Apples which begin to grow very scarce with us. I am much afraid we shall be like the Children of Israel--long for the garlick and onions that your city abounds with.
October 7th.-Set off for the North Mountain, which we find so bad we Obliged to foot it up, and could compare ourselves to nothing but a parcel of goats climbing up some of the Welch Mountains that I have read of. Sally very desirous to know whether this Mountain is not the one that's in Mr. Adgate's song. Find this the most fatiguing days in Journey we have had, the roads so very bad and so very steep, that the horses seem ready to fall backwards. In many places, you would be surprised to see the Children, Jumping and Skipping, sometimes quite out of sight, sometimes on horseback sometimes in the Wagon, so you see we have variety, tho' sometimes would very willingly dispense with some of it. Believe me my dear friends, the sight of a log house on these Mountains after a fatiguing days Journey affords more real pleasure than all the magnificent buildings your city contains. Took up our lodging at the foot of the Mountain and met with some very good entertainment. . . .
October 9th.-Crossed Sliding hill and were the greatest part of the day in performing the Journey,--the roads being so excessive Steep, sidling and stony, that it seemed impossible to get along. We were obliged to walk the greatest part of the way up, tho' not without company; there was five wagons with us all the morning to different parts. This night our difficulties began; we were obliged to put up at a Cabin at the foot of the hill, perhaps a dozen logs upon another, with a few slabs for a roof, and the earth for a floor, and a Wooden Chimney Constituted this extraordinary Ordinary. The people very kind but amazing dirty. There was between twenty and thirty of us; all lay on the floor, except Mrs. Rees, the Children and your Maria, who by our dress or address or perhaps both, were favored with a bed, and I Assure you that we thought ourselves lucky to escape being fleaed alive. . . .
October 11th.-Set off for the Allegheny Mountains, which we began to ascend the afternoon; found it as good as any part of our Journey. We ascend in the wagon, not without fear and trembling, I assure you. We got about six miles and fell in with a French Gentleman and his family going to Pittsburgh; we all put up at a little hut on the Mountain, which was so small that we preferred lodging in our wagon to be crowded with Frenchmen and negroes on an earthen floor.
October 12th.-And pretty comfortably arrived at the top of the Cloud cap't Allegheny. It was really awfully pleasant to behold the clouds arising between the mountains at a distance; the day being drizzly and the air very heavy, rendered the clouds so low that we could scarce see fifty yards before us. This Evening got off the Mountain, it being twenty miles across. We passed through Burlain, a small town; as the Election was held at this place, we could not be accommodated; proceeded to a Dutch house in the Glades, where we were kindly entertained. . . .
October 19th.-With the assistance of some people that was coming up in a flat we got off. The water very low. I am much afraid we shall have tedious passage. Our boat is 40 foot long;; our room 16 by 12 with a Comfortable fire place; our Bed room partitioned off with blankets, and far preferable to the Cabins we met with after we crossed the mountains. We are clear of fleas, which I assure you is a great relief, for we were almost devoured when on Shore. The Monongahela, with the many colored woods on each side, is beautiful and in the Spring must be delightful. We are now longing for rain as much as we dreaded it on Land, for it is impossible to get down until the water raises. We live entirely Independent, and with that there is a pleasure which Dependents can never be partakers of. We are all very hearty, nor have I had the least sign of Sickness since I came on board. May I ever retain a grateful sense of Obligation due to the great Creator for his amazing goodness to me, especially, who had every reason from the first of the Journey to fear quite the reverse. About 3 o'clock we passed the field (just about Turtle Creek) where Braddock fought his famous battle with the French and Indians, and soon after got fast on the lower ford, but the agility of our men soon got off. The river about a Quarter of a mile across. Sammy and Johnny gone ashore for milk. . . .
October 30th.-the weather much in our favour, it rained all day. Sewing and reading, and when the weather is fine walking are the amusements we enjoy. The gentlemen pass their time in hunting deer, turkeys, ducks, and every other kind of wild fowl, with which this country abounds. A beautiful doe had the assurance the other day to come half way down the hill and give a peep at us, but our hunters being out escaped being taken; fishing makes up part of their amusement.
October 31st.-Still in hopes of the waters raising, as we had snow again this morning and a prospect of rain;--this the most tedious part of our Journey as we still continue in one place. . . .
November 2nd.-Went over to the Island to see our new acquaintance, and they insisted on our repeating our visits. While we staid a man came in that was wounded by the Indians a few days ago about twenty miles from Pitt. A party of Traders were surprised by them in the night, but got off without any but a little Blood by one who had been wounded in the head with a tomahawk.
November 3rd.-Received a visit from the three French gentlemen who came to dine with us on board the boat. . . .
November 19th.-Passed Backer's fort about 10 o'clock A.M., and proceeded down the Ohio; a very beautiful river; passed Yellow which runs near the Indian shore. The country very hilly on both sides of the river, in places a half mile wide, in other places much narrower, so near we are to the Indian Country and yet think ourselves pretty safe. The wind blowing very hard and being contrary, obliged us to put on shore 65 miles below Pittsburgh, and the boat tossing about a good deal occasioned one to feel a little quamish. Betsy Rees was so sick she was obliged to go to bed; what strange reverses there are in life. The children are very hearty and one now is playing with Daddy on the shore. We passed fort Steuben and the Mingo Bottom in the night. We should have got up to see the fort, but the watch told us we could see nothing as it was cloudy. The barking of the dogs at the fort, the howling of the wolves, and the yelling of the hunters on the opposite shore, was a little alarming at first, but we soon got reconciled to it. . . .
November 25th.-At 6 o'clock A.M. got to Guyandot river, but not being called up, lost the sight of it. You can't imagine how much I regret the time lost in sleep; it deprives me of seeing so many of the beauties of nature. Just as we were going to breakfast we came to a small river call'd by the Indians Quindot; at 9 o'clock came to Tweel pool river, and soon after to Big Sandy Creek, on the other side of which the Kentucky lands begin. At 3 o'clock passed little Sandy river 30 miles Below big Sandy. Came to the Scioto in the evening. Came 100 miles this day. . . .
January 1st, 1788.-We still continue at my brother's and have altered our determination of going to Buckeye farm, and mean to go down to South Elkhorn as soon as the place is ready. Since I have been here, I have been visited by the genteel people in the place, and received several invitations, both in town and Country. The society in this place is very agreeable and I flatter myself I shall see many happy days in this country. Lexington is a very clever little town with a court-house and jail and some pretty good buildings in it, chiefly log. My abode I have not seen yet; a description of which you shall have by and by.
January 29th.-I have this day reached South Elkhorn and am much pleased with it. 'Tis a snug cabin about 9 miles from Lexington, on a pretty ascent, surrounded by sugar trees; a beautiful pond a little distance from the house, with an excellent spring not far from the door. I can assure you I have enjoyed more happiness the few days I have been here than I have experienced these four or five years past. I have my family together and am in full expectation of seeing better days.